Sunrise in DeLuca Vineyard (Zinfandel planted in Lodi's Clements Hills in 1961).

French oak barrel coopering at Tonnellerie Ô, Benicia, California.

Shriveling unpicked Zinfandel in mid-October.

Old vine Zinfandel harvest in Jessie's Grove's Westwind Vineyard.

Winter pruning in Stampede Vineyard (Clements Hills-Lodi Zinfandel)

Old vine Zinfandel vineyard sheep and shepherd on west side of Lodi's Mokelumne River appellation.

Musically arranged Syrah on an open trellis in Lodi's Abba Vineyard.

Charlie Lewis Vineyard Zinfandel, planted on Lodi's east side in 1903.

Wine lovers in the heat of the summer at Lodi's Jessie's Grove.

Zinfandel harvest in vineyard planted in 1907 (Steacy Ranch, east side of Mokelumne River-Lodi appellation).

Rare Portuguese grape (Touriga Francesa) in SilvaspoonsVineyards, Lodi's Alta Mesa appellation.

Fire shaping a French oak barrel at Tonnellerie Ô, Benicia, California.

Early morning harvesting of ancient vine Zinfandel; Kirschenmann Vineyard, planted in 1915 on Lodi's east side.

Cattle and hillside vineyard in Lodi's Borden Ranch appellation.

Ancient vine Carignan harvest, Spenker Ranch

Veraison (i.e., yearly changing of colors) in Fathom Vineyard; Zinfandel planted in late 1920s on Lodi's east side.

Ring of indigenous blue oaks in Bokisch Vineyards's TerraAlta Vineyard, planted in Lodi's Clements Hills AVA.

Winemaker in his ancient vine planting (Lot 13 Vineyard, dating back to 1918) at the break of dawn.

Vineyard bench among elaborately trellised Zinfandel on winter morning, east side of Lodi's Mokelumne River AVA.

Winemaker levitating vineyard rock in Lodi's Borden Ranch appellation.

First bloom of delicate flowers, destined to become grapes, in Lodi's Mokelumne River appellation.

Hollowed trunk of thriving ancient vine; Marian's Vineyard Zinfandel, planted in 1901 on Lodi's south-west side.

Trellised vines on winter morning in Lodi's Clements Hills appellation.

Rusty lichen on arm of ancient vine Zinfandel; Kirschenmann Vineyard, first planted in 1915.

Mossy roof of vineyard farmhouse along the banks of Lodi's Mokelumne River.

Primitivo harvest, Bare Ranch, Mokelumne River-Lodi

Grapevine sprayer in its rickety shed; Manassero Vineyard, south side of Lodi's Mokelumne River AVA.

Vivid colors of the yearly veraison in Lodi's Mokelumne Glen Vineyards, planted to German and Austrian grapes.

Ancient valley oaks and old vines on the west side of Lodi's Mokelumne River appellation.

Veranda in Lodi Lake Park.

Close-up of tree-like Carignan in Rauser Vineyard, originally planted on Lodi's east side in 1907.

30-pound loads carried all morning during Spenker Ranch Carignan harvest (vineyard planted in 1900).

Glass of ancient vine Zinfandel on the sandy soil of the vineyard from which the wine was sourced (Marian's Vineyard, planted in 1901).

Kirschenmann Vineyard Zinfandel (planted in 1915) in mid-summer, just a few weeks away from harvest.

Old vine Zinfandel leaf on frosty December morning (Schmiedt's 1902 Vineyard on Mokelumne River-Lodi's east side).

Flame Tokay harvest in historic Old School Vineyard, planted on Lodi's east side in 1906.

Early winter colors in ancient vine block on Lodi's west side.

Grapevine pruner on east side of Lodi's Mokelumne River appellation.

Purple contrarian and jacks (the latter, unpollinated berries) in Zinfandel bunch at the end of June on Lodi's east side.

Majestic ancient, gnarly Zinfandel, Mokelumne River-Lodi

Tall order: Rigorous old vine Zinfandel harvest on Lodi's east side.

April bud break among ancient vines on Lodi's east side.

Field sorting, ancient vine Zinfandel, Steacy Ranch

Dead of winter in east side Lodi winery estate.

Abba Vineyard Syrah harvest

Syrah on tractor

Abba Vineyard Syrah on Smart-Dyson trellis